Finding the West: A Journey Beyond the Horizon

Standing on top of a rimrock and overlooking the high desert almost doesn’t feel real. The wind in your face and the smell of fresh, uncontaminated mountain air made me feel something I never imagined. I am now back in Iowa, and I am still having a hard time putting this experience into words.

It all started with a phone call from Gregg Harding, the owner of Diamond H Ranch. He, his wife Dawn, and a few other friends and family members were out in Northern Wyoming at a horse clinic. Gregg asked if I would be interested in coming out and taking a few pictures of them to document their trip. Wyoming has always been on my bucket list, so without hesitation, the answer was a resounding yes!

The next day, the bags and gear were packed, and at 3:00 AM, my fiancée, Anna, and I hit the road. Little did we know this wouldn’t be like any other road trip we had been on. This would be a life-changing experience for both of us.

I have been traveling for the past twenty-two years for my career. I have driven from state to state, project to project, traversing the central U.S. states from north to south and all along the East Coast. But never have I taken the time to head out west. I have always dreamed of it, but for some reason, I never pulled the trigger. So when I got that call to head out, there was no way anything was going to stand in my way.

Driving across South Dakota, the vastness hit me. Mile after mile of open road with no one around. The landscape transitioned from mixed-grass prairie and cattle ranches to dramatic landscape features with deep canyons, flat-topped buttes, and the striking, eroded rock formations of Badlands National Park. As if that wasn’t enough, the famous Black Hills mountain range beckoned from the west, cloaked in its signature dark timber.

We took a detour and visited Mount Rushmore—another bucket-list item for me. The views were breathtaking. The amount of work it must have taken to complete this marvel is unfathomable. To think all of this was done before modern tools were created is simply mind-blowing. We could have spent days exploring Rapid City and the surrounding areas, but the excitement of what was to come kept us pushing west.

As the sun set, we stopped in Sheridan, Wyoming, to feed our desire for a ribeye and rest our weary eyes from a day of taking in one epic horizon after another, our minds completely buzzing with the sheer scale of the country we had just conquered.

The next morning, as we drank our coffee and took in the mountain views, we could feel the excitement growing—the anticipation of seeing a magnificent piece of our country that we had never experienced before. Since the beginning of time, humans have had a desire for exploration, and on this day, our own sense of adventure was on overdrive. We hurriedly packed our bags and got back on the road, not knowing that what waited around the corner was more breathtaking than anything we had seen so far.

Looking West on Hwy 14 at the Bighorn Mountains

As the clouds lifted, the peaks of the Bighorn Mountains began to emerge in the distance. We passed through the sleepy little town of Dayton, Wyoming, and continued along Highway 14, also known as the Bighorn Scenic Byway. This legendary stretch of asphalt starts climbing straight up the eastern face of the mountains via steep switchbacks and sharp curves.

The views were absolutely breathtaking. We climbed to just over 9,000 feet, where in May the snow was still feet deep on the ground. We saw all kinds of wildlife, including mule deer and moose. And did I mention the views? Absolutely mind-blowing. There are overlooks where, on a clear day, you can see over 100 miles away! At the famous Sand Turn Overlook, located just six and a half miles up the switchbacks from Dayton, you look down from an elevation of roughly 8,000 feet. The tiny towns below look like Lego blocks, and you can see the vast, flat grid of the Powder River Basin stretching out for over eighty miles toward the horizon.

Looking back East at Hwy 14 from the Bighorn Mountains

Our destination was Lovell, Wyoming. It is roughly two hours from Sheridan, the town where we spent the previous night. I’m not joking when I tell you it took us over four hours to make that two-hour trip—and I promise you, I could have made it last all day. I believe I gave myself whiplash from turning my head from side to side so fast trying to take in all the incredible views. We stopped numerous times to take photos, but even with the best gear money can buy, there is no way to truly capture the beauty we saw with our own eyes. I believe there is an emotional and spiritual feeling you get when you are standing there and witnessing these breathtaking creations. It definitely looks like God spent a little extra time on the West.

Bighorn Mountain Range

After catching up with the Hardings and some friends later that morning in Lovell, we all headed out to the Pryor Mountains to try and catch a glimpse of the wild mustangs that call the range home. Gregg, Dawn, and our accompanying friends are all genuine horse people, which made it an even more incredible experience to tag along with them to see and photograph my first wild mustangs. This was truly an amazing experience—one that changed my way of thinking and my entire view of the world.

Nothing could have truly prepared me for the moment the earth suddenly split wide open at Devil’s Canyon Overlook. Stepping up to the rim, a profound and humbling wave of awe washed over me as I stared down a thousand feet into a sheer, dizzying abyss of colorful limestone walls. The massive, rugged gorge twists through the landscape like a slumbering giant, carving deep horseshoe bends where the water below looks like a quiet, winding ribbon. Standing on that edge, with the wind rushing up from the depths and the endless Western sky stretching overhead, the sheer scale of the world made everything else completely fade away.

It was one of those rare, transcendent moments where the majesty of the American West leaves you standing in total, reverent silence. The sun-drenched canyon walls seemed to hold the weight of centuries, glowing with deep earth tones that shifted with the light. Some places on this earth possess a powerful soul entirely of their own, and Devil’s Canyon is undoubtedly one of them. Staring out across that breathtaking masterpiece of stone and sky, I felt a deep sense of gratitude just to witness it—a vivid reminder of the untamed, spectacular wonders that wait for those willing to explore.

Devil’s Canyon

Leaving the breathtaking depths of Devil’s Canyon behind, we pressed deeper into the wild horse range, paving our way through the Pryor Mountain backcountry. The red-dirt landscape grew increasingly raw and untamed as we climbed higher into the dry, limestone hills. Just as the feeling of isolation peaked, the magic happened. Moving further into the territory, the barren ridges suddenly came alive as my very first wild mustangs stepped into view, a spectacular and mind-blowing reward for our patience.

Wild Mustangs

It was a family band, or "harem," composed of a dominant stallion, a few protective mares, and a couple of young, leggy babies. Watching the foals try to keep pace with the herd over the jagged, rock-strewn terrain was an emotional sight to witness. The intricate family structure and strict social hierarchy of the band were immediately obvious. The lead mare directed the group's movements toward grazing ground, while the powerful stallion stood guard on a high rocky ledge, tracking our movement with intense, watchful eyes. Every flick of an ear and shift in body weight communicated boundaries and order within the herd, showcasing a beautifully sophisticated way of life.

What truly shook me to my core was the sheer resilience and strength radiating from these animals. They do not just scrape by in this harsh, unforgiving wilderness; they thrive in it. Their hooves are adapted to the brutal, sharp limestone, and their spirits are completely unbroken by the extreme elements. Seeing these historic creatures surviving on the edge of the world, nurturing new life against all odds, was a deeply moving experience that permanently reshaped my understanding of what it means to be wild and free.

Wild Mustangs

None of this would have been possible without the incredible generosity of the people who brought us here. I cannot thank Gregg and Dawn with Diamond H Ranch enough. Without them, this entire experience simply would not have happened, and it certainly wouldn't have been the same. They turned a lifelong bucket-list dream into a stunning reality, and for that, Anna and I are forever grateful.

This journey is far from over. Stay tuned for the next blog entry, where we venture even further west to explore the wonders of Yellowstone National Park, and I finally get behind the lens to photograph the horse clinic in action!